Thames Valley Member - Alan's link page

 

 

Our way of building our first Robin Hood.

Item
Subject
Description
1
Introduction
The video "handbook" just fails to delineate the build sequence, many of the operations are performed on a bare chassis making it impossible to differentiate the build sequence from the session sequence on the tapes. All builds are different, there are reasons, often unique to the builder why yours should be different. So this is a good point to start your planning.
2
Doner
Obviously the first job is to strip the donor vehicle. The body shell and many components will be disposed off as most people have a space problem. Ok you will change your mind and wish you had kept xyz but tough you made a plan and things do change, live with it.
3
Preparation
All the donor items to be used will need cleaning , and storing for later use. If you don't give them a finishing coat now then you will wish you had when you come to fit them. Waiting for a pert to be finished , primed undercoated and top coat is depressing, better done at this point.
4
Chassis
Cleaning up the chassis is a must, there will be weld splatter
5
Storage
Store the skin and fiberglass bits. We used over 0.5 of an extra sheet of SS in our build.
6
Front Suspension
We put the front suspension in first. We could lift the back and wheel the build in and out of the garage (rented council micro garage)(drive an astra in and you can't get out of the car). The torque tube and back axel are too heavy to lift and fit in the chassis.
7
Steering Rack
Steering rack. (to stop the front wheels turning left and right one each way). Steering column.
8
Torque Tube
Torque tube and differential. Wheel the build over the torque tube and lower the chassis assybly into place.
9
Floor
Floor then passenger compartment rear.
10
Engine
Engine and gearbox with prop.
11
Tunnel
Drivers side of the tunnel and footwell. Leave the passenger side off so you can fit in the brake lines, petrol and electrics, in order, bottom to top - Things do go wrong, the electrics won't drip on any thing and catch fire; petrol can drip on the brake pipes which can stand a petrol wash. A safe layout.
12
Now you have the choice what to fit, and where you wan't the miriad of items to go, battery, brake pedals/ servo, heater, radiator, fan, swirl pot, instruments, washer bottle, fuse box. All these have an input on the electrics water, brake fluid and the sequence.

 

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Thames Valley Member - Alan's link page